SPACE ODYSSEY: On|Off, the London-based showcase that helped kick-start the careers of J.W. Anderson and Peter Pilotto, among others, took over London's ...and more »
SPACE ODYSSEY: On|Off, the London-based showcase that helped kick-start the careers of J.W. Anderson and Peter Pilotto, among others, took over Londonâ€™s Oxo TowerÂ on FridayÂ to introduce three new designers: Luke Anthony Rooney, Jack Irving and Timothy Bouyez-Forge.
Taking cues from Rosalind Russell, the feisty, fashionable reporter who played opposite Cary Grant in the 1940 screwball comedy, â€œHis GirlÂ Friday,â€Â Rooney offered a lovely wardrobe that oscillated between breezy weekend dressing and crisp workwear, in line with Russellâ€™s character.
To wit, he paired a striped knitted sweater with a wonderfully light, silky slipdress and conjured a jumpsuit from a textured wool fabric donated to him by Christian Lacroix.
The group show quickly turned conceptual with Irvingâ€™s â€œarmy of alien showgirls,â€ as he called them. Cue corsets sculpted from plastic shards and matching headwear and zippy, sequined stretch bodysuits with inflatable spikes protruding from the back like a giant cosmic porcupine.
â€œIâ€™m only 23,â€ Irving offered apologetically, â€œI donâ€™t want to wash it down. I want to be more of an artist than a fashion designer,â€ he said. One could only picture Lady Gaga â€”Â an avid Irving supporter â€”Â sporting one of these.
Bouyez-Forge offered his take on inter-galactic street dressing. The spirited lineup featured handsomely distorted silhouettes done in spray-painted cotton, revealing the outlines of utility pants and bomber jackets.
They were accessorized with discarded metal poppers, which the designer said he started collecting off the streets. â€œI like the idea of repurposed industrial items that help clothes become something else,â€ he said of his signature scrap-metal designs. Here, they jibed well with the 25th-centuryÂ theme.
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